The Amalfi Coast is competing with Palm Springs as my happy place.

The Amalfi Coast is competing with Palm Springs as my happy place.
I arrived in Positano via the train from Rome to Napoli and then the local train, “Circumvesuviana” to Sorrento and then the bus to Positano. I had to ask for directions a few times to find my pensione. Some young girls were pointing the way for me and even helped me carry my bag down a handful of the 1000’s of steps I had to take to reach the pensione. They really just held the handle but I appreciated the camaraderie and team effort. When I got to the last little bit I was dragging my bag down the steps. It was a major effort to reach the place. I almost brought my mom here on our trip and I’m glad it didn’t work out. This is not the place for someone fresh out of knee replacement surgery.
Once I arrived, and saw my terrace and sea view, I was instantly so joyous. I almost cried on the bus ride from Sorrento to Positano. The area makes me so happy. Plus, it was a gorgeous day and that really helped boost my mood. Yes, crying out of overwhelming happiness.
After I got here, I instantly threw on “summer” clothes and headed out. It was probably around the low 70’s. I’m above Spiaggia del Fornillo, one of the beaches here. I decided to head that way. After many steps down (rats, I have to go back up these) I arrived at the beach and a little restaurant right on the sand. I think there are typically many more open in the summer but I am ahead of the season. It’s good for getting a deal but bad for – guess what? Construction. I’m not going to discuss that topic anymore though.
I ended my first night with dinner up the street from my place. I hadn’t eaten practically all day so I was starving. I also was ready to forgo any pasta and start eating some seafood. I ordered a plate of grilled sardines, although I really think they were anchovies. I tried to clarify with the waiter if they were sardines or anchovies because the Italian part of the menu said anchovies but the English part said, “sardines”. I always read both because the English translation isn’t usually very accurate. I think they were anchovies mostly based on how small they were but most of the sardines I’ve had have been in Beirut with the exception of the one night I convinced Karmen and Molly to order sardines with me in Seattle. Whatever they were, they were good. I also had zucchini in olive oil and mint and profiteroles with chocolate. Yummy.
Day two and I decided I would probably take the boat to the town of Amalfi. I had seen Positano already and I had a task to accomplish. Remember how I dragged my suitcase down a few stairs? Well, I needed to buy a new suitcase. I tore a huge hole in the bottom of my bag along with some other small tears. Now, I have to explain. This isn’t my suitcase that I brought from home. That bag was too big for moving around easily so I left it in Rome with John from Canada and I bought this bag from a street vendor in Rome. I debated buying from the vendor or an actual store and after looking at prices and bags at both places I decided that this cheap bag would be fine. I wasn’t checking it onto an airplane after all. The bag didn’t even last a day. I have to stop buying suitcases on every trip I take but I can’t seem to take up space in the one suitcase I bring to pack another suitcase for later use. I think this is it though.
Amalfi was nice although I didn’t feel like I did anything of substance. I don’t think there is much to do besides shop, eat, go to the beach, and see the one church. I did 3 out of the 4. My boat ride back was really lovely and much faster than my ride to Amalfi.
I got back to my room and hung out a bit with my new friend Silent Bob. Silent Bob is an orange cat that I’m assuming lives here. I named him Silent Bob because the first time we met, he opened his mouth to meow and nothing came out. He hasn’t said anything since. I thought that maybe I should have given him an Italian name like silenzio Roberto or arancia but since he doesn’t speak I don’t think it matters. I won’t pet him though. I remember all too clearly Jill’s story of when she first moved to Italy and got ringworm from petting a cat. I too do not know how to say “ringworm” in Italian and my cat impersonation isn’t nearly as good as Jill’s.
I finished my second night off with dinner at another spot on the hill. I wasn’t very hungry but figured I’d have a little something. I ate too much. I started with a caprese salad that was big enough for two or three people. The mozzarella cheese was different than I’ve had before too. It was more of a loaf shape instead of a ball and it tasted different. Almost like it wasn’t fresh, which is typical for this salad but it also wasn’t totally dry like American mozzarella cheese. It kind of had the consistency of feta. I decided to try this typical Calabrian pasta dish for my main course and holy cow. It was so incredibly good. It was fish ravioli with mussels and broccoli. I was so full but I had to eat it all. It was so good.

My morning started very early and was very exciting. At about 5:45 I could hear some rooster crowing in the distance. A few minutes later the thunder started, followed by the biggest storm I think I’ve witnessed yet on this trip. I had some really crazy ones in Rome too: thunder, lightening, and crazy downpours. This one was similar but I really couldn’t sleep during it and I kept getting up to look out the window. The thunder sounded less like “god moving his furniture” and more like cannons firing. I do know what this sounds like too. One would go off every day at noon on the hill above Trastevere. I don’t know why. The lightening was insane too. It seemed to be coming down all around me and I could see very clearly the zig zag of each bolt. One bolt seemed to be so close that I felt temporarily blinded by the brightness of it. The storm ended at some point but a new one came in around 7am and it started all over again. It definitely feels like the calm after the storm now. There is a bit of sun and blue sky again. I hope it doesn’t rain during the day because I’m assuming that all these stairs and streets basically become waterfalls.